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Ko au te awa, ko te awa ko au [I
am the river and the river is me]
These words embody the
spiritual, cultural and historical
relationship of Whanganui
Maori with the river which holds
their ancestry. This important
saying traditionally used by local
Maori has become increasingly
relevant to locals of European
descent whose lives and history
have also become interwoven by
the river.
The Whanganui River begins
high up in the volcanic plateau
of the central North Island
at Mt Tongariro, and travels
north towards Taumarunui
before heading south towards
Wanganui. Its journey to the
sea passes through the native
tree and fern clad hills of the
Whanganui National Park.
Tree ferns and rare native plants
cling to the steep riverbanks
and morning mist clings to the
surface of the water from dawn,
rising slowly with the light of
day.
This dramatic landscape opens
out in the lower reaches of the
river to follow farmland and
open valleys to the coastal dunes
which border the Tasman Sea.
How you can explore
the river valley
The Whanganui River offers
visitors the ability to take a
remote and adventurous journey
of discovery and understanding.
It combines elements of both
Maori and early European history
with a recreational adventure
along its 260km journey to the
sea. The rapids offer a variety
of challenges yet the river is
still considered suitable for
beginners.
A river journey by canoe through
this remote scenic river valley is
one of this country’s most lifechanging
adventures.
Canoe tour operators offer tours
of varying lengths, with both
guided tours or freedom hire
available.
Local maori operators add a
cultural perspective to their
guided tours, sharing their korero (stories) and taonga
(treasures) and marae (traditional
maori villages).
The Department of Conservation
provides huts and campsites
along the length of the river, and
privately owned accommodation
is available.
The ancestral lands of
Whanganui Maori bordering the
river include the largest tract
of lowland forest in the North
Island, and are preserved for all
as the Whanganui National Park.
This National Park enjoys a dual
heritage from nature itself and
from the forty generations of
maori who have lived there.
Within its forested environment
early Maori cultivated the
sheltered terraces of the land
and built their marae and kainga
(villages) on strategic heights.
Tieke in the middle reaches and
Koriniti on the lower reaches
are two marae which regularly
provide travellers with a place
to stay and the opportunity to
participate in cultural traditions.
‘The Bridge to Nowhere’,
constructed in the 1930’s to
provide access to farms in the
Mangapurua Valley is an unusual
and fascinating feature, and is
virtually the only surviving sign
that the area has ever been a
place of settlement. Access is by
a forty minute walk along a wellformed
track provides access
from the river for canoeists. For
those with less time to spare,
jet-boat transport also provides
access to the Bridge and the
scenic and historical sites along
the Whanganui River valley.
The Whanganui River and the
road which follows the reaches
of the river from Pipiriki to
Wanganui are two inter-related
journeys.
The road journey is intimate and
adventurous, enabling travellers to visit isolated communities and
a pace of life which is in contrast
to the rest of the country.
Daily coach trips provide a
comfortable way to visit the
area, enabling visitors to view
the stunning scenery and take
photographs while hearing the
varied stories of the valley’s
history.
Many beautifully preserved
Marae which are the family
gathering places of local Maori
are visible from the road.
Permission must be obtained
before visiting.
The village of Jerusalem which
was once part of a larger village
called Patiarero has been home
to two famous figures from New
Zealand history, Mother Mary
Aubert, whose Catholic mission
remains today, and highly
recognised New Zealand poet
James K Baxter, who established
a community there in the late
1960s.
Accommodation options include
the convent, farm-stays, selfcontained
cottages, camping
and campervan facilities.
These usually need to be booked
ahead, as most are combined
with the daily working life of
locals.
Some have remote access by
aerial cableway or by boat, which
also needs to be arranged in
advance.
In the urban reaches of
Wanganui, where the river
meets the sea, river trips travel
daily upstream to the village of
Upokongaro, where visitors can
enjoy the riverbank setting and
obtain refreshments.
The Whanganui Regional
Museum in the centre of town
has many exhibits which help
enhance the understanding of
the history of the Whanganui
River and its place in the lives of
the people of the Whanganui
region.
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